A Beginner's Guide: 5 Things You Need to Know Before Starting Your Locs

Have you been admiring the locs of celebrities like Burna Boy, Chloe and Halle, Future or Wiz Khalifa and envisioning what you would look like with a set of your own?

Dreadlocks, better known as locs, have blown up in popularity as this notorious style has become more socially and culturally acceptable with anti-discrimination laws like the CROWN Act recently being passed in over 23 states prohibiting racial discrimination based on protective styles like locs and other natural hairstyles.

Now, locs are being displayed on the big screen in increasing numbers by people of influence in every entertainment industry from sports athletes and rappers to actors, actresses and even pastors!

When you think of who popularized and globalized locs as a cultural statement, artists like Bob Marley, Snoop Dogg, Lauryn Hill and Lenny Kravitz may come to mind but now we see them everywhere.

I’m not gonna lie, every time I watch a commercial and someone with locs pop up on the TV screen, a little piece of my soul does the dougie.

So lemme me guess… you’ve been browsing the internet researching the starter loc process, reading up on articles about loc maintenance, scrolling through photos and videos of #locstyles on Instagram and TikTok? You may have even started looking up loctitians in your area?

I gotcha! I’m gonna lay out everything you need to know about starting your locs.

By the time you finish reading this blog, you should be well-informed and ready to book that starter loc session.

WHAT IS YOUR WHY?

First things first, why do you want locs? Take a moment to really think about this.

Your WHY is so important. In those moments when you’re on the verge of going full Britney Spears and ripping out every single loc in frustration (I promise you, this will happen at least once) — your WHY will ground you and remind you of why you decided to start your loc journey in the first place.

And it’s gotta be deeper than liking how Offset’s locs look in his music videos.

If you believe anyone that tells you the loc journey is all rainbows and butterflies, you’ve been duped. Conned. Scammed. Bamboozled.

It usually takes locs 1-2 years to fully mature and in that period, there are several phases your locs will go through. Shrinkage. Frizziness. Budding. The loc that likes to stick straight up no matter how much water you mist on it.

*sighs in retrospection

I’m not tryna discourage you at all… I just wanna keep it 100% real with you. Although new locs can be combed out, mature locs are considered a permanent change in the state of your hair. You're allowing your hair to intertwine, tighten and marry together creating bundles of hair that form ropes called dreadlocks or locs.

For me, starting my locs was the best hair decision I’ve ever made and I don’t see myself ever combing them out. We takin' these to the grave, baby.

Now let’s get to the juicy stuff!

5 METHODS TO START LOCS

Let’s talk about your hair texture.

There are four different ways to organically start locs and it largely depends on your hair texture and personal preference.

*Keyword: “organically"

If you wanna fast forward to mature locs in one loc session, instant locs are always an option. That’s a topic that deserves its own blog post but here's a quick rundown.

Instant locs are acheived by using the crochet method to form locs with natural hair or by adding in human hair. This is the best option for those that have a straight or fine hair texture that would require manipulation tactics such as backcombing or the rip and pull method to achieve locs... or for those that are impatient and wanna skip over the much-loathed “ugly phase” we all go through as a rite of passage when we naturally start our locs.

This method is also a good choice for those that want to start their locs at a certain length with loc extensions - hair added in to achieve length and fullness.

Depending on your hair texture, you can naturally start your locs through these four methods:

• Freeform

• Two strand twists

• Braids

• Coils
  

FREEFORM

Freeform locs are created when you allow your locs to organically form and mature with minimal to no interference. Think Jay-Z or J Cole. You may guide the formation of your locs with a curl sponge to cultivate more uniform locs before they begin the locking process.

I will caution that if you allow them to form with no interference, you may end up having different size locs or “two headed dragon locs”, which is when one loc has two separate ends like a snake’s tongue.

This method is best if you’re a free spirit with a more kinkier hair texture. This may not be the best option for those navigating through Corporate America or in an industry that relies heavily on a more conventional physical appearance.

TWO STRAND TWISTS

Two strand twists are easily the most popular method to start locs. It's also my favorite way to start locs on my clients. This is when you take two separate sections of hair and twist one over the other. It’s a little more complex than that but that’s the basics of how to do it. This method is perfect for almost all textures but works best on hair that has a tighter curl pattern.

BRAIDS

The second way to start locs is with plaits or braids. This is my least favorite method to use to start locs because you tend to see the braid pattern even after the locs have matured. I only use this method on clients if their hair is too wavy for the coil or two strand twist method.

COILS

Lastly, we have coils as a method for starting locs. This is when you use a fine tooth comb to twist sections of hair into uniformed curls or coils with gel to hold them. This method is best for hair with a looser curl pattern that naturally coils.

HONORABLE MENTIONS

Sisterlocks and micro locs are another option. Sisterlocks require the interlocking method to start and micro locs can be started using the traditional methods to start locs -- twisting, coiling or palm rolling.

Personally, I wouldn’t consider sisterlocs or micro locs a method to start locs but moreso a subset of locs. This loc style is a great option for those with a fine hair texture or low hair density. Thicker tresses may suffer from thinning or breakage due to added tension from the weight of the hair as the locs grow and mature.

You should consult with a loctitian to determine which method would work best for you and your hair.

PARTING SYSTEMS & HAIR DENSITY

Now that we know exactly what hair texture you have and which method would work best on your hair based on said hair texture, let’s discuss the different parting systems and which is best for you based on your hair density.

There’s mainly three ways you can part your hair when setting up the foundation for your starter locs - the traditional box or brick lay parting system, diamond parts and triangle parts.

If you have a lower hair density meaning your hair does not have much volume and tends to be more fine — diamond or triangle parts would look best on you as it creates the illusion of a fuller head of locs.

Keep in mind that locs tends to thicken and compress over time so the size of your sections when you start them should reflect that.

Hair density also affects your loc's thickness as they mature. Hair density relates to the number of hair strands on your head. If you have low hair density, you will have thinner locs. If you have a higher hair density, your locs will be thicker.

LOC PHASES & WHAT TO EXPECT

Let’s go over the different phases your locs will go through after you start them.

I mentioned a few earlier but I wanna go more in detail so when it happens, you’re aware and will know what to do or not do.

BABY LOCS

A lot of people call this phase the "ugly phase" as your locs go through many transitions in this stage and some of them are not the most aesthetically pleasing. I like to think of this period as the coccoon stage as your locs metamorphisize into beautiful locs.

It's not always comfortable and it will challenge the beauty standards you have been programmed to uphold and sustain. Your hair will go through a slow but steady transformation as they undergo the process of intertwining, marrying and locking together.

Patience is of the highest virtue during this stage.

• Shrinkage

This will begin to happen before you even hop outta the salon chair. Clients get so excited when they come in for a consultation with long tresses thinking they’re gonna leave the loc session with shoulder length starter locs. I have to break it to them that they’re gonna lose up to 30% in length as the hair draws up after the starter locs are installed.

The best method to use to retain length is two strands twists especially with the technique I use to install them. You will experience shrinkage at various phases in the loc journey. Don’t stress. Once the locs mature and get a little heavier, they will drop - typically around shoulder length.

• Itchiness of scalp

Itchiness is common especially if your scalp isn’t used to being exposed to the elements - sun, wind and humidity - to name a few. You can combat this by adding a few capfuls of tea tree oil into a jar of coconut oil and massaging it into your scalp. This should provide relief.

TEENAGE LOCS

• Frizziness

The enevitable. We hate to see it but honestly, frizziness is the first sign that your locs are starting to lock up. This may begin to happen as early as the baby loc phase - 1 to 6 months in - but typically start in the teenage phase and can happen from time to time even after your locs mature.

Please do not cut or crochet the frizz. Be patient. Mist them to speed up the locking process. The pieces of hair sticking out will draw back into the loc with time. Cutting and crocheting them in the early stages could cause the locs to thin and even break. Put the tools away for now!

• Budding

If you see your locs budding, you should be rejoicing! This is solid proof that your locs are maturing. This typically happens in the teenage phase of your locs, which is between 6-9 months to about a year or two depending on your hair texture.

Budding is when you have a loc that is tightening but there’s sections within the loc shaft that are fat and soft. Locs tend to expand before they constrict and tighten. You don’t need to do anything and once again, please don’t crochet them.

• Texture changes

Your locs will go through many changes during the locking process. Sometimes your texture will change as your locs mature. This is normal. Just ride the wave. Remember locs are like fingerprints - no set of locs will ever be the same. Don't compare your loc journey to others. Embrace the evolution of your locs. Each stage is beautiful and to be honored.

Oh and aht! Keep those hands out cha hair!

MATURE LOCS

• Antennae locs

This will be annoying at times but it typically happens as your locs are maturing. You may have one or two stubborn locs that refuse to lay down, especially if you started your locs at ear to neck length. You may be going about your day and happen to glance in the mirror as you’re walking by to see a loc sticking straight up giving the Teletubbies a run for their money.

I would recommend misting your locs and styling them in a way that keeps the loc from sticking up. You could use bobby pins or put them up in a pineapple or bun or just let your locs be free. Those locs will begin to lay down as they grow and mature. Let gravity do its thing!

In EVERY phase, it’s very important to keep your locs moisturized by misting them with water and applying an oil based on your scalp and loc needs. This will prevent breakage and create hydrated, strong and healthy locs. Be reminded that water is what moisturizes our locs - not oil. Oil acts as a sealant to create a barrier between your locs and the surrounding elements and to keep the moisture from escaping through evaporation.

Product build-up is also common with locs in the maturation phase. You can prevent this by avoiding heavy creams and gels and diluting your shampoo with water to create a foamy lather before you apply it to your locs.

LAST FEW POINTERS REGARDING STARTING YOUR LOCS

THE ROOTS

When you start your locs with coils or two strand twists, rule of thumb is that you twist the hair clockwise as that is the typical direction that our hair curls. However, some people’s hair naturally curls counterclockwise. With that in mind, you should start your locs based on whichever direction your hair naturally curls.

THE ENDS

I've noticied a recent increase in client's requesting curly ends. The way the ends of your locs form is really dependent on… you guessed it... your hair texture. If you want to manipulate your locs into having curly ends, you can comb your ends out once they start to loc and put water and gel on them to create curly ends but you must have a curly-coily texture to begin with or the ends will eventually lock back up on their own as time progresses.

There you have it, folks. Everything you need to know to start your locs.

Next blog, we’ll focus on loc care after you start the loc process.

Now go book that starter loc session.

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